＜人田美濃客家菜食記＞人田美濃客家菜Menong Hakka Dish 2024

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一般人對於客家菜的印象往往停留在偏鹹偏油偏肥。如果你這麼想，人田美濃客家菜可會讓你跌破眼鏡！因為它的特色就在於減鹹減油不減香。聽起來不容易？但這一個小時候跟在阿婆（客家話對阿嬤的稱呼）旁邊團團轉，長大後跑到法國巴黎藍帶廚藝學院，取得主廚資格的邱家三姊邱聿涵做到了。

邱家做客家料理已經三代。客家阿婆大多手藝好，邱家阿婆的麵攤賣面帕粄、米篩目及切料、下酒菜。阿婆總是說，煮菜沒有什麼訣竅，只需要本著食物的特性、季節，加上料理人的用心，每個人都能做出好料理。邱聿涵說阿婆很嚴格：「單就說鳳梨蔭醬，阿婆八十幾歲了還是堅持要來店裡看我們做，且她連續監督了三年才安心，她會看我的鳳梨選得好不好，所以我們鳳梨蔭醬的鳳梨不但不是別人賣不掉的，反而是選品質最好的來做蔭醬。」

在阿婆的薰陶下，邱家從1990年經營客家菜餐廳，1997年開始轉型，邱聿涵已經掌杓十八年了。邱聿涵說古早客家人很厲害，會在當令蔬菜盛產時，先醃製儲存，接著一年四季都可以利用這些調味料，跟新鮮的食材結合。再用這些醃製菜來調味，根本無須額外附加人工佐料。

Most people have the impression on Hakka dishes as salty and greasy. Ren Tian Mei Nung Hakka Restaurant could break the stereotype, as it features reduced salt and oil but without cutting down the savor. It may not sound easy but chef Jin-Han Qiu, who followed Grandma around in childhood and obtained degree from Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Arts Institute, has achieved it.

The Qiu family has run in Hakka culinary business for 3 generations. The first-generation grandma sold rice cake, rice noodles and appetizers. Grandma always stressed that there was no secret to cooking but. However Chef Qiu thought that Grandma was very strict and would supervise their preparation of pickled pineapple at the restaurant for 3 years, even at the age of 80. Chef Qiu claimed to choose only the best quality of pineapple for the pickled pineapple.

Under the influence of Grandma, Qiu Family started operating Hakak restaurant in 1990 and transformed in 1997. Chef Qiu has cooked for 18 years now and she mentioned that these early Hakka people knew to pickle some vegetables in season in order to use these condiments with fresh ingredients later all year round. They do not have to put additional artificial seasoning with these pickled vegetables. 

阿婆秘傳客家菜，法國媒體都讚好

藍帶主廚的邱聿涵既從阿婆那裡習得傳統客家菜餚，也配合不同季節蔬菜推陳出新，讓傳統的客家菜口味更爽口。傳統的炭燜豬腳，現在搭配綠竹筍做的筍乾與梅干菜，並加手工釀造醬油與冰糖、油蔥酥等燉滷。邱聿涵說：「傳統的鹹豬肉比較油膩，我們現在則用中藥醃製上選五花肉，出菜前再清蒸。」別小看清蒸這道手續，可會大大降低鹹豬肉的油脂。

除了炭燜豬腳之外，一定要嚐嚐富貴香辣雞蝦球，鍋巴是令人懷念的好滋味，雞肉外酥內嫩，配上蝦子鮮甜的口感，福菜末鹹香提味。阿婆密傳的鳳梨蔭醬則廣泛運用在店裡的魚和野蓮菜餚，神奇的是，點這些菜來吃，看得到米醬，但看不到鳳梨，因為精華已經融合在菜裡了。

邱聿涵覺得自己很幸運，還能跟阿嬤學到鳳梨蔭醬。因為現在很多客家醃菜已經失傳。這客家女兒即使飄洋過海到法國學習，一心一意想的還是客家菜，留法期間，她曾經以客家菜讓法國媒體讚好，她說臺灣不只有小吃，客家菜一定可以成為臺灣菜餚的代表！

French media gives thumbs-up for grandma’s recipe of Hakka dish  

Ren Tian Mei Nung prepares traditional Hakka dishes with different vegetables in season. Traditional braised pork knuckles now serve with green. Chef Qiu mentioned: “We now use Chinese herbal medicine to marinate premium streaky pork, and then steam before serving.” Traditional spicy chicken and shrimp also features crispy chicken, sweet shrimp and preserved vegetables. Grandma’s recipe for pickled pineapple is also widely used on the fish, with the pineapple complete dissolved into the dishes. 

Chef Qiu feels fortunate to have learned pickled pineapple from her grandma since many Hakka pickled vegetables have disappeared. Blue Ribbon Chef mentioned that Hakka dish has been much reported by French media during her study and now she is committed in promoting Hakka dish as the signature Taiwan cooking. 

炭燜圓蹄套餐，特選豬蹄膀用甘蔗墊底，炭火燜燒6個半小時，肉嫩皮Q、入口即化。

Outside of Ren Tian Mei Nung Hakka Restaurant.

鳳梨蔭醬，選用上好鳳梨，古法醃製的客家蔭醬，料理時只要加一點就能讓湯鮮甜有味，完全不須其他調味料。

Pickled Pineapple: Selecting premium pineapple and pickled by ancient Hakka formula, season a little bit to savor the soup with freshness and sweetness. No additional condiment is required.

桂花釀番茄：採用路竹當季盛產的聖蜜小番茄，一顆一顆剝皮醃製，酸、鹹、甜的滋味呈現出美濃客家菜本色。

Sweet Olive Marinated Tomato: Small tomato from local Luzhu in harvest is peeled and one by one and marinated. The sour, salty and sweet taste presents the essence of Meinong Hakka dish. 

富貴香辣雞蝦球，選用上等雞肉，結合海味鮮蝦，搭配客家獨有辣椒醬拌炒而成。

Spicy and Hot Shrimp and Chicken Ball: Selecting premium chicken combined with shrimp to stir fry with the exclusive Hakka chili sauce.

客家封肉，選用上好的三層豬肉，搭配美味的醬料熬煮數小時，美味而不膩相當道地。

地址：高雄市鼓山區美術東二路7號

電話：07-5528848

營業時間：周一至周日11:00~14:00 17:00~21:00（全年無休）

周邊景點：高雄市立美術館、中都愛河濕地公園、中都濕地公園遊客中心、高雄市客家文物館、美術公園、光之塔、兒童美術館

特色：客家吉三元、香鬆刈包套餐

網址：http://www.fuhome.com.tw/[1]

交通：捷運紅線凹仔底站轉乘168環狀線至美術園區站步行約1分鐘。

ADD: No.7, Meishu E. 2nd Rd., Gushan Dist., Kaohsiung City, Taiwan (R.O.C.)TEL: 07-5528848Business Hours: Monday to Sunday 11:00~14:00 17:00~21:00（All year round）Feature: Hakka Three Dishes, Steamed sandwichWebsite: http://www.fuhome.com.tw/Transportation: Take MRT red line, transit at Aozihdi Station and take Circular Line 168 to Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts, walk for about 1 minute.